界面新闻记者 | 方馨宇
界面新闻编辑 | 黄姗
博物馆典藏级珠宝品牌CINDY CHAO艺术珠宝在北京国贸商城呈现“廿载拓界艺术启新”20周年系列巡回展北京站限时展，首次以“移动的博物馆”的形式公开亮相大型商业综合体，将艺术与传统零售业态进行有机拓界。
此次限时展览中，品牌特别精选多件极具代表性的20周年系列新作进行全球首发。展览空间以“生命之树”为主题为公众揭开博物馆典藏级珠宝的神秘面纱。
此次，Cindy Chao特别选择品牌经典的四季系列作为20周年系列新作的核心系列，以经典且极具辨识度的叶片元素为灵感进行延伸，创作出多件长叶胸针作品，打破了人们对于生命力的固有认知，更加着眼于生命张力的表达。
每件叶片上平均镶嵌1,500多颗宝石，在仅有1.77mm薄的钛金属上打造大幅度弯曲褶皱并全镶宝石，大师级工匠必须在20到60倍的显微放大镜下进行镶嵌，最终每一件镶满宝石的长叶胸针平均仅有22克，呈现出真实叶片的灵动轻薄。
20周年系列的蜻蜓作品在当下也随着艺术家的心境而变化，以更加简约而坚韧的形式呈现。
每一个20周年系列蜻蜓胸针的翅膀都各不相同。蜻蜓翅膀在阳光的折射下闪烁着璀璨的光芒，经过阳极导色处理的钛金属呈现出具有丝绒质感的奇幻色彩，不断精进的镶嵌技艺让蜻蜓翅膀轻如薄翼的通透感完美复原。
多件蜻蜓胸针的身体及翅膀脉络采用了天然牛角、光化树脂进行打造。不同材质在同一作品的结合难度极大，需评估各个材质的特性，并考虑韧性与硬度，制作适合的榫卯结构，精准计算金属与异材质的接合位置、角度，历经不断打磨与雕刻才能实现。
Tiffany & Co.蒂芙尼再度推出五款全新让·史隆伯杰高级珠宝系列Rainbow Bird on a Rock彩虹“石上鸟”作品，以一系列璀璨钻石与彩色宝石，创新演绎品牌传奇设计师让·史隆伯杰（Jean Schlumberger）的经典“石上鸟”胸针。
作为品牌最具代表性的设计之一，这只诞生于1965年的经典小鸟，在新作一系列充满意趣的演绎中，呈现令人惊喜的全新面貌。每款瑰丽迷人的胸针作品，均以彼此相称的色调与材质，烘托出小鸟所栖息宝石的非凡美感。小鸟羽毛及身体的色彩和质感，更是围绕着主石展开，以呈现浑然一体的和谐之美。
其中一款镶嵌一颗重逾100克拉海蓝宝石的Rainbow Bird on a Rock彩虹“石上鸟”胸针，从典藏设计中汲取灵感，采用微颤工艺镶嵌一颗水滴形绿松石。
其他瞩目之作同样镶嵌着不同华美不凡的宝石，包括重逾80克拉的蓝色锆石、重逾52克拉的红碧玺以及重逾25克拉的钻石。
此外，蒂芙尼还将金属薄片嵌饰珐琅工艺融入作品中，以此致敬让·史隆伯杰对珐琅材质的深切热爱。
Boucheron宝诗龙宣布上海国金中心店启幕标志着宝诗龙在中国大陆已打造出16家精品店。
宝诗龙上海国金中心精品店呈现出别具一格的巴黎设计风格，令人不禁联想起位于巴黎芳登广场历史悠久的宝诗龙之家。店内装饰则融合了世家设计理念中的诸多元素，使宝诗龙精美绝伦的珠宝作品在柔和而现代的氛围中熠熠闪耀。
该店焕新诠释了芳登广场的经典建筑语汇：深色大理石边框、黑色金属线条以及法国古典主义特有的对称性结构等巴黎风格元素，演化为世家永久传承的标志性印记。
除了Boucheron宝诗龙Quatre，Serpent Bohème及Jack de Boucheron等经典系列珠宝佳作外，全新精品店还将同步呈现Animaux和Nature系列珠宝臻品，尽显世家工匠的卓越工艺与革新创艺。
春水春池满，春时春草生。
春人饮春酒，春鸟哢春声。
---《哢春声》 嘶嘶与帆
Water fills in the pond in spring.The grass grows in spring.People enjoy wine in spring.
Spring is coming, the birds are chirping.
——The Spring
「AURORA DESIGN」此次接到的是一个旧式居民楼改造，项目坐落在昆明市中心的老街区，毗邻立体停车场、旧式民居和小吃街。场地周边的复杂环境让项目变得有趣，新旧相交的张力将空间的生命延续，“春天”随时发SHENG。
AURORA DESIGN has received a renovation project for an old residential building located in an old neighborhood in the center of Kunming, adjacent to a multi-story parking lot and a snack street. The complex surrounding environment, the tension between the new and old, makes the project more interesting. “Spring” are easily expected to blossom at any time.
项目在「原有建筑」基础上进行改造
▲ before
▲ 项目改造过程
▲ after
使用「倾斜造型」将原本不太理想的建筑状态进行拉伸
▼
「春生珠宝」是一家由95后开启的新生代艺术珠宝店，致力于高品质的宝石原创设计，设计凸显自然美感。品牌搭建了属于自己的制作工厂， 真正从源头把控每一个作品的小细节。从设计到成品，每个步骤都由经验丰富的匠人师傅全手工制作，是独特创意与卓越技艺的融合。 主理人以温柔的视角注入，将自然美与艺术生活方式的理念跨界融合在珠宝设计中，打造有温度、富生命力和原创性的珠宝品牌。
我们探寻在地文化，以“光”的意向引入，将“春”化形而生，遵循品牌外貌，生发出独属于“春城”的魅力空间。
Chunsheng Jewelry is a new generation art jewelry store opened by post-95s, dedicated to high-quality original gemstone designs that highlight natural beauty. The brand has built its own production factory, truly controlling the small details of every work from the source. From design to finished product, each step is handmade by experienced craftsmen, which is a fusion of unique creativity and excellent skills.
The young owner integrates the concepts of natural beauty and artistic lifestyle into the jewelry design, creating an original brand with warmth and vitality. After exploring the local culture, the interior design brings the "spring" into shape with the proper introduction of light. Following the expression of the brand, the unique charming of the “Spring City” has been generated.
，时长02:06
▲ 点击查看「春生珠宝」视频
收纳春光，应运而生。
整体建筑由三层构建，轻盈而简洁，设计师保留了旧建原本的轮廓格局，将周边的建筑面貌延续，用方块切割整体空间，并在原始结构中拆除了承重墙加固，将空间变得明朗而通透。南面开辟外延的露台和外摆空间，引入更多自然光，让整个闭塞的环境与自然连接，由光而生，以光的姿态描摹春天，以光的跳跃刻画时间。
The orgin frame of this three-layer building remain unchanged to harmonize with the surroundings.
Inside, however, a new airy and open space was created by dividing the space into a series of modular sections and removing the load-bearing walls in the original structure. On the south side, an extended terrace and outdoor display space have introduced more natural light in, which allows the previously enclosed environment to connect with nature. Through the influx of light, the essence of spring is evoked, and the passage of time is captured in the playful movements of the light.
两面透光而亮的玻璃移门，将惬意交给日光，随光的影子步入室内， 它攀上石岩，蔓生出细密的枝条，当春发生；它越过木石，氤氲出茶香四溢，收拢春息。
Sunlight filters in through the glass doors on two sides, bringing the energy of spring into the interior space. It climbs up the stone ledges, delicate branches sprout and bloom as spring arrives; It reaches beyond the wood and stone, the fragrance of tea permeates the air, gently enveloping the essence of spring.
由大型的艺术装置导入内部空间，让参观者在初入空间时就能感受整体的氛围，轻松而惬意，如沐春风，犹闻花香。 装置灵感来自于旷野的大自然，盘根错节的植物根系。这些天然的元素被柔软地包裹着，蔓延着。 转身而过，木质吧台温柔的栖息在你的周身，这里不止售出石头的艺术也贩卖美味的典藏。
A large-scale art installation act as an introduction of the interior space, allowing visitors to immediately experience the overall vibe as they enter - relaxed and comfortable, like bathing in spring breezes and catching the fragrance of flowers.The installation is inspired by the wild nature and the intricate root systems of plants. These natural elements are gently enveloped and spread throughout the space.As you turn around, a wooden bar counter gently embraces you. This is a space not just sells artistic jewelry.
主理人最初只是想给看珠宝的客人提供一个舒适的空间，由此而将茶饮+办公室 的概念植入空间，这个灵感却在春日的烂漫中生根发芽，转而成为空间中不可或缺的所得。原木与枝丫交接、光影在山石间跳跃，春风送来茶香袅袅，感官流动，关于“春”的思绪婉转。
The initial intention was providing a comfortable space for customers as much as possible. Thus, an office with tea area was inspired. Now, it has became an integral, indispensable part of the space. Wood intersects with branch, as light and shadow dance across the stone. Spring breezes carry the gentle fragrance of tea, allowing any thoughts about spring meander around the room.
另一边，错落交叠的三角区域就像惊蛰乍起，破开了空间中的灵动与肆意。浮光雀跃，在山石间绽开了精细雕琢的珠翠欲滴，这里展示了春风的魔法和时间的凝刻。
The staggered overlapping triangle area on the other side breaks the fluid dynamism and unbridled spirit within the space, resembling an insect awaking from the hibernation.
不规则的天花造型和克制的灯光运用刻写出沉稳而静谧的时光气息。富于雕塑感的墙面造型 ，时而曲折锋利，时而规则理性，就像珠宝匠人们手中的刀具切割，设计师将其用于空间形态的刻画中，引导参观者的感官认知。
Flickering light dances across meticulously sculpted gems and jewels where the magic of the spring and infinite time was showed. The irregularly shaped ceiling and the restrained lighting create an atmosphere of tranquil. Time was settled. The wall with alternating curves and sharp edges generate a feeling of sculpture. The shape echoes the tools jeweler used to carve gems. The designers have employed the same technique to sculpt the spatial forms for guiding the visitors' sensory experience.
待到日光划过正午的脊背，缓缓爬上云层似的阶梯，暖白的微水泥抹面捕捉光走过的声音，在凹凸与平滑间游戏，停顿在环抱的休憩处低语，细密的流露出时间的声息。
As the daylight crosses the midday and slowly climbs up the cloud, the warm, white micro-cement finish captures the whispers of light as it travels, playfully weaving between the recessed and smooth surfaces. Pausing in the rest areas, it murmurs the faint breath of time.
推开木质门扇，温暖的大理石地面合着温度刚好的木制家具，整个办公空间显现出一份温馨、舒适的氛围。
A cozy and comfortable ambience created by marble flooring and wooden furniture will come to you when you push open the wooden door.
暖白、浅木色、深木色的不同搭配，就像春日合唱里的不同声调：是初春的淅淅沥沥，仲春的鸟声啾啾和暮春的落花惊枝。
空间中的木质家具来自AURORA DESIGN 艾洛设计的自主原创设计，融合功能实用性和设计感。木头温润的质感，与其他“自然感”材质的结合，带给空间松弛的状态。
The combinations of warm white, light wood and dark wood colors are like the different tones in a chorus that reveals the different stages in spring: the patter of early spring, the chirping of birds in mid-spring and the falling flowers in late spring.
The wooden furniture in the space, originally designed by AURORA DESIGN, seamlessly integrates functionality with aesthetic appeal. The warm texture of the wood, combined with other natural materials, imbues the space with a sense of relaxation.
设计师运用不同的颜色表达空间的功能属性，将工作流程和顺序解构在空间中，以色彩思维统筹空间要点。北侧，是为春生珠宝工作室特设的「珠宝制作间」，生产创意的小格子，顾客在这里完成自己的奇思妙想，让思绪发芽-成长-绽放-结果，亲历雕刻的过程就像闯入春天流动的盛宴，流光溢彩闪耀。这里犹如创意的宝库，每一个角落都闪烁着灵感，每一件作品都有独特的意义。以动静交替，拓展空间属性，完成空间维度的多元构建；延续自然美感和原创属性的品牌意识，打造独属于品牌的性格标识。
The designer first deconstructed the space based on workflow and take the advantage of color patterns to creatively express the function of the space.
The customized “jewelry room” on the north side is a place special designed for customers to achieve their own whimsical ideas, letting their thoughts germinate-grow-bloom-fruit. Experiencing the carving firsthand feels like stepping into a flowing feast of spring. This is like a treasure trove of creativity, with inspiration shining in every corner and each piece of work having a unique meaning.The alternating movement of glittering light achieves a muti-space where the brand awareness, natural aesthetics and original attributes, are continued. In this way, a unique brand character identity was qualified.
穿过工作区，一树绿意倾泻而下，设计师保留了原址的绿植，将西侧的植栽移置露台处，营造出工作中的‘自然时刻’，让人沉静愉悦，心生安然。
紧邻树池的木构装置，设计师利用多重几何形态交叠灰空间，是外部与内部的连接地带。由内而外，是摄影镜头探索的张望，留存并记录关于春天的影像；由外而里，是行人好奇目光的追问，牵引美好的春日畅想。
Through the work area, a sense of greenery pours down. The designer retained the plants of the original site and moved some plants on the west side to the terrace, creating a 'natural moment' in the workplace, a perfect area for mind-calming. The gray space, a wooden installation adjacent to the plant, overlapped through multiple geometric forms functioned as a connection of outside and inside. Camera lens are allowed to explore the space from the inside, which keeps and records the images of spring, meanwhile, the inquisitive gaze of the pedestrians from the outside sparks the beautiful imagination about spring.
二楼与三楼连接处的楼梯，内敛而安静的色调搭配简约的几何造型，将空间中平衡温和的声量放大，并延续至三层。三层主要作为主理人的办公空间和开放的VIP空间使用。
The staircase connecting the second and third floors, with its restrained colour palette paired with minimalist geometric shapes, amplifies the balanced of the space and the feeling continues all the way to the third floor, which was mainly used as an office space and a VIP space.
设计师在三层的设计中用了大量的矩形开窗，导入更多的自然光线，办公室顶部的天窗，明亮但聚焦的光线满足珠宝辨识的需求；飘窗里直白明丽的光线让视觉与景观连接；而南面大面积的玻璃砖，让正午倾泻而下的阳光更和煦温柔；西面的侧窗，光线隐秘而温和，将摄影室的私密性完整烘托。
设计师通过对光线强弱的调节来完整场域环境的构建。温和的软木格栅，用来区隔功能区域，空间的连续性和视线的交流隔而不断，使整个空间保持统一个性。
A plenty of rectangular windows was largely used in the design to introduce more natural light.
The skylight on the top of the office, bright but focused light meets the demand of jewelry identification; the white and bright light in the floating window bring the landscape in; the large glass blocks on the south side make the mid-day sunlight more warm and gentle; and the side window on the west side, with its secretive and gentle light, protect the privacy of the studio in its entirety. The design has made a complete construction of the environment by adjusting the intensity of the light. Functional areas are separated by cork grilles to ensure spatial continuity and sight communication, so that the tone of the entire space remains unified.
在整个项目的配色上，设计师在考虑了街区特色时对色彩注重简约的表达。建筑外立面以白色为主，突出整个建筑与周边环境的和谐共生。
设计师也更加注重光影对建筑的呈现，以白色作为底色，衬托出最原初的光影美感。而在室内的颜色表达中，大量的暖色调及中性色的加入，让平衡、温暖、沉静的空间主题呼之欲出，以珠宝作为中心表达，减弱色彩的运用。
In the color choosing of the whole project, the designer takes the characteristics of the neighbourhood into consideration therefore express the color in the simplest way.The facade is mainly white, highlighting its harmonious coexistence with surroundings. The presentation of light and shadow is also a priority for consideration, using white as the undertone to set off the original beauty of light and shadow. As for the interior, the overall colour expression is centred on the jewelry with a large number of warm and neutral colors are added to underline the spatial theme of balance, warmth and calmness.
而在室内的颜色表达中，大量的暖色调及中性色的加入，让平衡、温暖、沉静的空间主题呼之欲出，以珠宝作为中心表达，减弱色彩的运用。
As for the interior, the overall colour expression is centred on the jewelry with a large number of warm and neutral colors are added to underline the spatial theme of balance, warmth and calmness.
「AURORA DESIGN」基于对周边文脉的探索，将个性化的表达融入城市肌理，用简约的色彩关系阐述品牌构想，以光影的多维探索来表达品牌温度。
在建筑本体和城市客体的论述中寻找跨界融合，用明暗色调转换空间与意向，让自然生长于形，长存于心，用光的温暖绘写春意茶香的创新生活方式与玉石之精原创品牌精神。
Based on the exploration of local culture, Aurora Design integrates personalized expression into the urban texture, elaborating the brand concept with simple colors, expressing the tone of brand with multi-dimensional exploration of light and shadow. Aurora Design strives for cross-border integration in the discourse of architecture and urbanization. It skillfully plays with light and dark tones, interchanging space and image, enabling nature to flourish in form and reside within heart. The innovative lifestyle of embracing spring and enjoying tea is conveyed through the warm light, along with the original brand spirit of the Essence of Jade and Gem.
项目名称：春生艺术珠宝
Project Name: CHUNSHENG
项目地点：云南省昆明市
Location: Kunming City, Yunnan Province
项目面积：300平米
Area: 300㎡
设计团队｜AURORA DESIGN 艾洛设计
Design Firm: AURORA DESIGN
主案设计｜杨雪婉
Chief Designer: Yang Xuewan
设计团队｜AURORA DESIGN
灯光设计 | Uniimport 元入科技
Lighting design: Uniimport
设计时间：2023.8月
Design Time: 2023.8
完工时间：2023.12月
Completion Time: 2023.12
施工落地｜重塑空间
Construction: Rebuilding Space Lab
公司官网｜www.aurora22design.com
Website: www.aurora22design.com
项目摄影师：言隅 纳信
Photography: Na Xin from INSPACE
项目视频｜WM STUDIO
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不需要美术基础一样也可以做设计。没有人规定说学珠宝设计一定要有美术基础,我可以很肯定地回答你。目前在珠宝行业里面从事珠宝设计(电脑设计)没有任何美术基...
安特卫普皇家艺术学院是在1663年创建的世界一流的艺术设计学院,还是很不错的一个学校,在加上比利时的安特卫普也是著名的钻石切割中心,椰树世界最大的钻石贸易...
国内著名的珠宝设计学院是中国地质大学(北京)、中国地质大学(武汉)。该专业开设院校:中国地质大学(北京)、中国地质大学(武汉)、中央美术学院、中国美术...国...
谢谢邀请,我是珠宝培训师艾昊,我来回答珠宝首饰设计专业在国内的还是相对来说比较少的,而且这个专业在国内来说历史还比较短,珠宝首饰设计专业主要有以下几...
